Virtual Purchase: Great Quality $2000 Round Diamond

Last week, I helped a friend search for a diamond.  Unfortunately, she lost her diamond from the setting, due to prongs breaking on her ring (fairly common, see my recent post about leaving rings for service).  She did have insurance on the ring, and with that reimbursement, had $2000 to spend on a new diamond.

She had an approximate .50 carat center diamond before, from a mall store.  We quickly figured out that she would get a better value shopping for a diamond online.  Some local independent jewelers may be able to come close to online pricing, but most mall jewelry chain stores cannot. 

I searched mainly on Blue Nile and Amazon.com.  I know from previous research and other loose diamond Virtual Purchases (click here for a round 1 carat virtual purchase), that these 2 sites have the best combination of selection, quality, and price.  Both have relatively intuitive search features and some customer support if you need it.

My friend wanted very nice quality (D to G color, VS1 to SI1 clarity, and Very Good to Ideal cut), but was excited to find that she could go up slightly in size even in that fine quality range.  I narrowed it down to several diamonds from each of the sites.  For all of the diamonds listed, they are GIA certified, and I liked all of the details: none had medium or higher Fluorescence, the girdles were not too thin or too thick, and I liked their relative table and depth percentages.  ANY of these diamonds would be drop-dead gorgeous.

My list of Blue Nile choices (if you click on the price, it will take you to the diamond’s detail page):

Carat:		Price:		Color:	Clarity:	Cut:	Depth %:	Table %:		Symmetry:	Polish:
0.73		$ 2,029.00		G	SI1	ID	61.2%	56%		VG	VG
0.62		$ 1,966.00		E	VS2	ID	61.3%	56%		EX	VG
0.64		$ 1,831.00		F	VS2	ID	62.6%	54%		VG	VG

The first choice represents a larger carat weight.  Both the weight and measurements are significantly larger than what she had, without sacrificing too much on quality.  The second choice is very fine quality, with the smallest carat weight of these options while staying in her price range.  The third choice is still wonderful quality, but is very slightly larger with a great price tag.

Here are my Amazon choices (again, click on the price to go to that diamond’s detail page):

Carat:		Price:		Color:	Clarity:	Cut:	Depth %:	Table %:		Symmetry:	Polish:
0.74		$ 1,920.00		G	SI1	ID	60.3%	58%		VG	VG
0.65		$ 2,015.00		D	VS2	VG	61.1%	60%		VG	G
0.62		$ 1,905.00		E	VS2	ID	61.6%	57%		EX	EX

I followed the same logic for these diamonds: 1st choice is larger but still great quality, 2nd is one of the finest qualities but still reasonable size and in her price range, and 3rd option is a wonderful balance between nice size and quality.

What I found is that Amazon’s prices are just a tiny bit better across the board.  Not by much: in this case maybe a difference of $50 to $100.  But that difference might cover the cost of setting the stone.  Blue Nile may be able to provide a little more guidance, so perhaps that is worth the additional cost. 

Ultimately, my friend chose the .62 E VS2 from Amazon (sorry, it’s sold!) for $1905, it was just an excellent value and a great balance of factors. 

Bottom line, for $2000 you could have a nice, no-apology quality 3/4 ct; a very nice, heirloom quality 2/3 carat; or very rare quality 1/2 carat.  I feel that for this purchase, she made an excellent, balanced decision.

What’s Trust Got to Do With It? A Jewelry Repair Tutorial

It is inevitable, at some point your ring or jewelry will need service.  You’ve heard the stories perpetuated by the media: stone switching, shoddy repairs, and outright loss when people leave their jewelry for repair.  Like most things with the media, reports are exaggerated.  BUT, there are a few things you can do to make sure you don’t get taken advantage of, and make sure you get your jewelry back in one piece.

Here’s what you should know:

1. Choose a reputable jeweler for the repair.  Ask around for a glowing recommendation from friends, family, and people you trust.  If you really don’t know a local jeweler, check out the American Gem Society websitefor a referral.  The AGS is a jewelry non-profit trade organization that was founded to promote high ethical standards among jewelers, and member jewelers have to subscribe to rigorous standards and be tested each year on their knowledge and service.  There are AGS Certified Jewelers in most markets in the US.
2. Insist that they use a Take-In Form, and get your own copy/receipt.  The actual form will vary from jeweler to jeweler, but all should have the same basic information: your contact info; a description of the item; a precise description of the work to be done; an estimate for the cost of the repair; and A REPLACEMENT VALUE FOR THE JEWELRY ITEM that you both agree on.  This information protects all parties.  
3. Get a good faith estimate on the repair work.  Writing “Fix” on the repair envelope does not count as a good repair description.  If your diamond fell out and you need your ring sized, then the description of the work should read something like “reset enclosed clear stone, re-tip 3 prongs, and size up to a size 6+”.  You should get some sort of estimate, even if it’s a ballpark figure, in writing on your receipt.  Or if it’s very elaborate, you can ask that they call you with an exact figure before they proceed with the work.  Most jewelers will do a free estimate, so if you decide not to go ahead, there should be no charge to you (there are exceptions to that, especially if they have to ship it somewhere to get the estimate). 
4. Get a complete description of your jewelry on the Take-In Form.  Don’t be offended if the jeweler uses terms like “1 green square cut center stone with 6 clear accent stones in yellow colored mounting stamped 18k”.  You may know that this is your Aunt Harriet’s heirloom Colombian Emerald ring, but the jeweler doesn’t probably have the time or lab equipment necessary at take-in to determine the exact mineral content of the gems you are leaving.  Experienced professional jewelers usually use general color terms to describe it (if they describe it as an Emerald, and it turns out to be glass, they don’t want to be liable for replacing the essentially worthless glass with a $10,000 emerald).  But the color, size, shape and number of gems should be noted along with metal stamps, engravings, and any other distinguishing marks.
5. Have the jeweler show you specific characteristics of your jewelry so that you can identify it when you get it back.  The jeweler can map out your diamond’s inclusions (or lack of) so that you can both check them when you get it back.  They can show you your sapphire next to one in their showcase to accurately describe the color.  The point is for you to BOTH scrutinize your jewelry so that you know what to look for when you get it back. 
6. Agree on a replacement value.  This is part of the take-in form and a good jeweler will want that filled in.  It limits their liability, too, in case there would be a loss.  Take in an appraisal if you have one, or a receipt.  Even if the value is out of date, it’s a good starting point for the discussion.  If you really have no idea, then they can show you items they have in stock most similar to your jewelry to figure out a value.  Make sure you agree and sign off on it.
7. Trust your gut.  Make sure you feel confortable with the store and salesperson before you walk out of the store.  If something doesn’t feel right, or the jeweler doesn’t follow the above points, take your jewelry and walk away.

I hope this information is useful and helps to put your mind at ease when you leave your precious jewelry for repair!

Comment if you have any other suggestions or horror stories–we can all learn from them!

Example of Jewelry Repair Take In Form

Ever Wonder About the “2 Months Salary” Guideline? Check this out.

This may be tantamount to heresy in the jewelry industry, but I have never been a fan of De Beer’s 2 Month Salary guideline.  In case you haven’t ever heard about this, De Beers, in their ever-present marketing, delicately suggest spending the equivalent of 2 months of your salary on a diamond engagement ring.  When asked about this over the years, my response has been to spend what you think is appropriate for YOUR situation.  No two couples and circumstances are alike.  Do what you want.

So today I ran across this amazing pictorial representation of this recommendation (thanks, Woot!).  This artist has taken US Dept of Labor statistics for wages, figured out 2 month’s salary amounts, then assembled images of 9 rings in that dollar range for 20 professions (each piece of art is 8 by 10 inches).  Check it out:

"Anesthesiologist" Engagement Ring Image, Lee Gainer

Looking at the images, I find this so fascinating.  It appears that size does matter: it’s a reflection on your socio-economic status, and to some it is an indicator of how much your fiance really loves you.  This is a subtle, brilliant social commentary on when marketing and relationships intersect.  Thank you, Lee Gainer.  Check out the artist’s equally amazing installations of “the thought that counts” and “group therapy“.

"Welder" Engagement Ring Image, Lee Gainer

What do you think of the 2 months salary “rule”?  Useful guideline for engagement ring neophytes, or Evil Corporate Mandate?

How Do I Sell My Jewelry?

I have been asked this question a number of times in my career, and it always makes my heart squeeze a little.  There are many different scenarios where people might need to sell jewelry.  Maybe the engagement or marriage didn’t work out, sometimes there are financial hardships, or maybe someone inherited Aunt Harriet’s ring and just won’t wear it. 

This scenario exposes a dirty little secret of the jewelry industry–there is no secondary market to speak of.  The jewelers who work so hard to sell you something in happy times aren’t really set up to help you if things don’t work out.  This makes a difficult situation even harder. 

The first thing you should know is that YOU WILL NOT GET BACK WHAT YOU PAID FOR YOUR JEWELRY.  There are a number of reasons for this.  If you sell it to someone in the industry, they can buy it wholesale and are in the business to make a profit.  Jewelers can carry large in-house inventories on memorandum, where they only pay the dealer for it if they sell it.  If they do buy something, they can get 30, 60, 90 day terms to pay for it.  Or they can make a cash purchase for a percentage off the wholesale price.  To buy it from an individual, they have to pay you outright, take a fair amount of risk that the item is what they think it is (mountings can hide a lot of flaws), and hope they can turn it in the future.  If you sell it yourself to an individual, you need to make the price compelling enough for someone to pay you cash instead of financing it through a jeweler.  Keep in mind, too, that you may need to unmount diamonds and gemstones and put them into simple settings that appeal to most people.

In general, there is a direct relationship between the amount of time you are willing to wait and the amount of money you will net for the jewelry.  The faster you want to liquidate, the less you will get for the item.  I have compiled a list of possible options and the impact this makes on how much you will get.  I have listed the following options in the approximate order of least amount of time and effort on the seller’s part to more time/effort, but possibly greater return:

$ Pawn Shop/Jewelry Liquidator:  In general, this is the option of last resort.  You will get–maybe–10 to 20 cents on the dollar for what you originally paid if the item has more value in the labor, such as a cluster ring with a lot of gold.  You may net more if the item has a solitaire diamond at least 1/3 to 1/2 carat.  The pawn shop or liquidator is going to turn it very quickly for a little more than they paid for it (way below market value), which is why the price is so low.  But it’s very fast–in the case of a pawn shop you will walk out with cash/check in hand.  In the case of an on-line liquidator, such as Thingswebuy.com, you contact them on-line, they Fed Ex you a box/package, and they will let you know as soon as they receive it what their offer is.  A company that I have heard of that might be good for more important jewelry items is Circa, they have offices in several major US cities.  Not sure how much they sell, but there is also an entertaining little site called exboyfriendjewelry.com to check out.  Note: I have not personally vetted this or any other on-line liquidator/buyer, so I cannot fully endorse.  Do your homework and proceed with caution.

$$  Consign through a physical jeweler:  This could be through the jeweler you originally purchased it from, or another store in the community.  There should be a written agreement about how long they will have it in the case, the price they will try and get for it, the amount you will net from the sale, and the appraised value if anything should happen to it while in their possession.  This option can take an extremely long time: how motivated is the jeweler to sell your item, versus their own inventory that represents a major capital investment?  But the amount that you net might be closer to what you paid for it, especially if you bought it from that jeweler and they are compassionate about the situation.   

$$$  Sell it yourself:  This option probably makes some people’s palms sweaty.  It is not for the faint of heart, but this is the way you can get closer to your purchase price. 

1. The first possible audience is someone you know who might be interested: friends, family, colleagues, etc.
2. I do not recommend a newspaper ad.  It is expensive, no one reads ads anymore, and it could attract the crazees. 
3. Craigslist.  This is a totally viable option, but probably only if you live somewhere there is an active local site.  Craigslist is easy, it’s free, and it’s local.  If you have paperwork, such as a diamond lab grading report or an appraisal, list as many details from it as you can.  Try to take a good photo, it’s easy to upload.  Price it well–you need to make it enticing to buy it from you versus a jeweler (jewelers offer less risk, return policies, financing, etc.).  If you paid $5,000, price it at $3500 or 4000–it will be a good deal for the buyer and that’s a pretty good price to get back out of it.  If you really want to sell it and be done with it, 1/2 of the price you paid (NOT a fictitious appraisal value) is very compelling.  If you find someone who is interested in seeing it, my recommendation would be to meet at a bank.  It’s a public place, security is all around, you can show the item to the potential buyer (hey, you could even pull it from the safety deposit boxes there if the bank has them, further reducing your security risk), and if the interested party decides to buy it, you can verify their certified check funds before they leave with the jewelry.
4. eBay:  This option is trickier (and worthy of its own blog).  Going through the listing process if you’ve never sold on eBay before is not trivial.  There are listing and selling fees that can add up.  You are also competing against semi-professional dealers with slick offerings.  But you can get your item in front of a large potential audience who is actively looking for jewelry.  There are 2 options for eBay, auctions and Buy It Now.  Auctions are still their bread and butter.  They recommend starting the bidding low with no reserve, but if you really can’t go below a certain price, you can set a reserve price (for instance, you paid $5000 for a solitaire diamond ring, you want to get at least $2500 for it, so you can start the auction at $1000 but set a reserve of $2500).  Definitely go for a longer auction, 7-10 days.  You can also set a Buy It Now price that represents a fair value.  There is a TON of fraud on eBay, so what I recommend is using an escrow service to hold the funds until the buyer has a chance to view the jewelry.  

$$$$ Trade It In:  If you can trade in your jewelry, you will probably get the most value possible for very little exertion on your part.  For instance, if you bought an engagement ring for $5000 and things didn’t work out, maybe you want a Rolex for yourself.  Or perhaps you could hold onto it until you decide to get engaged again, and trade it for a larger, finer diamond.  You might even get the full amount the jewelry is worth if the item you’re trading for is for more money.  Even if you didn’t buy the original item there, if it’s a salable piece, a jeweler has more incentive to do this than the consignment route.  Again, you’re taking some loss in that you are not getting full value back in hand, but that is the reality of the situation. 

Jewelry DOES have lasting value, it can always be reduced to its precious materials and the value measured out.  The unique thing about jewelry is that the emotional significance behind it is harder to calculate.  Only you know what your jewelry is really worth. 

Have you ever had to sell a piece of jewelry?  What was your experience?  Please comment and share your story!

Internet Diamond Price List and Index

I have compiled a table of diamond prices.  I researched the diamond prices for common sizes and quality combinations of GIA or AGS certified diamonds from leading diamond websites, including Blue Nile, Amazon.com, Union Diamond, Abazias, Mondera.com, Adiamor, and others.  This list is an up-to-date price that you should pay for each respective carat size, color and clarity.  If you pay close to the prices shown below, you can rest assured you are getting an excellent value for that size/quality of diamond.

Why does this exist?  This list is intended to reduce the complexity of the diamond listings you will find online.  Many listings will show almost identical diamonds with large price variances due to the different vendors those companies buy from and their pricing algorithms.  This price list shows a rational, logical approach that tries to distill the information in a transparent way. 

I will research and update these prices each month.  I will also compare the diamond prices to previous month’s prices and will report on the relative changes through the Internet Diamond Price Index.  Because this is the first month, January 2009, the idazzle.com Index is 100.

idazzle.com Internet Diamond Price List
January, 2009
Competitive prices for each Size, Color and Quality combination
All are Very Good or Ideal Cut
idazzle.com Diamond Price Index (IDCX) =									100
		*Index is compared to diamond prices in Januaray, 2009
	0.25 ct	IF	VVS1-VVS2	VS1 – VS2	SI1 – SI2		0.75 ct	IF	VVS1-VVS2	VS1 – VS2	SI1 – SI2
	D	655	549	523	509		D	7,004	4,256	3,162	2,350
	E	641	537	513	505		E	5,148	4,225	3,370	2,228
	F	632	524	509	499		F	4,563	4,201	3,138	2,203
	G	627	518	507	495		G	3,977	3,389	2,843	2,140
	H	605	`	489	475		H	3,964	2,946	2,297	1,868
	I	588	486	475	462		I	n/a	2,762	2,281	1,673
	J	566	468	458	445		J	2,518	2,218	1,455	1,339
	0.33 ct	IF	VVS1-VVS2	VS1 – VS2	SI1 – SI2		1.00 ct	IF	VVS1-VVS2	VS1 – VS2	SI1 – SI2
	D	1,130	873	663	515		D	18,101	11,846	7,787	5,610
	E	1,112	758	588	465		E	12,223	11,318	6,767	4,606
	F	1,059	751	578	449		F	11,792	9,656	6,632	4,387
	G	874	672	568	435		G	8,219	7,965	5,689	4,313
	H	826	659	544	430		H	7,360	6,800	4,830	4,224
	I	780	651	442	355		I	6,170	5,610	4,339	3,566
	J	n/a	n/a	n/a	379		J	4,540	3,942	3,553	3,123
	0.50 ct	IF	VVS1-VVS2	VS1 – VS2	SI1 – SI2		1.50 ct	IF	VVS1-VVS2	VS1 – VS2	SI1 – SI2
	D	3,048	2,290	1,466	1,107		D	43,232	28,461	18,996	11,028
	E	2,663	2,213	1,376	1,102		E	32,097	27,624	18,751	10,363
	F	2,424	1,870	1,321	998		F	24,706	22,256	14,853	10,270
	G	2,073	1,673	1,180	975		G	19,825	18,310	12,705	9,248
	H	1,972	1,446	1,134	955		H	13,357	11,619	10,832	8,136
	I	1,625	1,173	1,033	751		I	12,211	10,955	8,955	7,379
	J	n/a	937	702	594		J	9,751	9,531	7,239	6,293
	0.60 ct	IF	VVS1-VVS2	VS1 – VS2	SI1 – SI2		2.00 ct	IF	VVS1-VVS2	VS1 – VS2	SI1 – SI2
	D	3,958	2,981	2,031	1,567		D	85,205	55,171	34,726	18,478
	E	3,056	2,549	2,018	1,370		E	60,534	51,693	33,090	18,250
	F	2,984	2,264	1,884	1,298		F	44,708	43,280	31,467	18,192
	G	2,479	2,235	1,729	1,250		G	32,394	30,433	22,881	15,604
	H	2,382	1,985	1,263	1,005		H	31,719	29,617	19,333	14,963
	I	2,350	1,978	1,172	997		I	23,874	20,033	14,488	13,845
	J	n/a	1,654	1,023	950		J	n/a	16,809	12,566	11,548
	Copywrite idazzle.com LLC 2008
	www.idazzle.com

Virtual Purchase: 1/2 Carat TW Round Diamond Stud Earrings

Several times a month, I am going to do a “virtual purchase” of a piece of jewelry.  I will  articulate a jewelry purchase scenario, and go through the decision-making process of what, how and where I choose to “purchase” the item.

What:  This week’s virtual purchase will be a pair of 1/2 carat tw (total weight) round diamond solitaire earrings in simple white gold mountings, with nice sparkle without overpaying for quality you can’t see.  While this is a popular size for diamond earrings, keep in mind that these will be smaller than you think–the 1/2 carat diamond total weight is spread across 2 stones, so each is 1/4 carat and the typical diameter is about 4mm each.  Click here for a neat little graphic from Blue Nile illustrating relative diamond size. 

Where: I am going to shop online at Costo.com, Blue Nile, Amazon.com, Walmart.com, Diamond.com, Diamondstudsonly.com, and Union Diamond.  NOTE: unlike loose/solitaire diamonds, earring of this size won’t typically have independent diamond reports/certificates from the major grading labs.  I am only going to sites where I am reasonably confident that I would get the quality that is stated on the website.

Here are the results, click here if you need help on the diamond 4C’s terminology:

Company:	Mounting Metal:	Min Color:	Min Clarity:	Cut:	Price:	Comments
Amazon.com	18 kt	H-I	SI2	VG	$521.99	Excellent value, cryptic price messaging
Diamondstudsonly.com	14 kt	G-I	SI2	VG	$599.00	If they can deliver this quality, it’s a good option
Union Diamond	14 kt	H-I	SI1-SI2	NA	$600.00	If they can deliver this quality, it’s a good option
Blue Nile	18 kt	I	SI2	Good	$700.00	OK value, nice site, consistent quality
Costco.com	14 kt	I	VS2	Good	$799.99	Nice value for higher clarity, probably can’t see difference
Walmart.com	14 kt	I-J	I1-I2	NA	$499.00	Not comp quality, not recommended
Diamond.com	14 kt	H-I	I1	NA	$695.00	Not comp quality, not recommended

Bottom Line:  If I were purchasing for myself, I would purchase the Amazon.com pair.  They have the best quality/value ratio for the $521.99 price.  However, I don’t know how long the “sale” will last, so if they discontinue the sale price, I would recommend either the diamondstudsonly or the Union Diamond pair.  If you are really into higher clarity, the Costco pair might do it for you.  As with all jewelry purchases, it takes some research and legwork to compare, and it can get confusing for the lay person.  Not all diamond earring quality combinations are equal across different companies, as the table above shows.  Below are my notes about the specific details of the merchants and their offerings, and links to the exact pairs reviewed.

Costco.com:  Yes, their site is clunky–the refining browse structure is just awkward.  But their prices are usually very good, they tend to have nicer qualities, and are scrupulous about quality control.  They have a smaller selection than other sites, but they have a nice pair of 1/2 carat tw round diamond earrings set into classic 14kt white gold baskets, I color or better, VS2 clarity or better for $799.99.  I know from industry reputation that their cut quality is pretty good.  That price includes shipping, and the site says you can have them in 2-3 days.

Blue Nile:  Beautiful site, pretty intuitive to browse for earrings.  At Blue Nile, you can build your own pair of earrings by selecting matched pairs of diamonds and a mounting style of your choice, or you can choose from popular sizes/shapes already mounted.  The most likely pair of round diamond studs was 1/2 ct tw, I color or better, SI2 clarity or better, good cut, set into 18 kt white gold screwback settings for $700.  You can get them next day for free if you order by a certain time.  These are slightly lower clarity than the Costco pair, but at SI2 you are unlikely to see any inclusions with the eye, and you get better mountings for almost $100 less than the Costco pair.

Amazon.com:  If you click on Amazon’s Jewelry catagory, they have a “Diamond Stud Earring” heading in the left nav that takes you to this page set up with all of their pre-set diamond earring choices in popular shapes/sizes/qualities.  The round diamond stud earrings in 18k white gold basket settings with a regular friction back are H-I color, SI2 clarity or better, and very good cut (which will give you great sparkle) for $869.99 retail plus shipping, which doesn’t sound competitive with BN or Costco.  BUT, there is a sale of 40% off applied when you actually put the item in your cart and go through the purchase process until the final “submit”.  The final price is $521.99 which is an excellent value.  I don’t think shipping is free unless you are an Amazon.com Prime member.  But I find the whole pricing strategy to be odd.  These earrings have a $2380 retail, which is TOTALLY ridiculous!  Then they have their published discounted price of $869.99, which is high.  The final price of $522 is very good, but it’s not transparent and difficult to get to. 

Walmart.com:  Platinumgirl shops at Walmart for jewelry, you say?  Well, they are the largest retailer of jewelry in the US by volume, and this is a basic item, so I figure I should check it out.  The site is terrible–you can’t sort for size, quality, even shape.  I finally found a pair of 1/2 carat tw round diamonds, H-I color, I1-I2 clarity, in 14k white basket settings for $499.  These are in no way comparable to the other diamond earrings I found at other sites–I just don’t recommend an I2 for anything–and probably not pretty at all.  The Amazon.com pair is light years ahead of these and for not much more ($521 final price).

Diamond.com:  Surprisingly, since they are a jewelry-specific site, I find this site to be challenging.  For all the browse refinements in the left navigation, I still have to wade through a bunch of stuff to find the round solitaire 1/2 tw studs.  The closest I could come to the other contenders was this pair, at H-I color, I1 clarity for $695, in very un-appealing 14k white gold screw back settings.  I would not recommend this pair.  For the same price (or lower, in Amazon’s case), Blue Nile  and Amazon both have finer quality.

Diamondstudsonly.com:  I am giving this site a try, since it comes up at the top of Google search results.  You can sort of “build your own” by selecting diamond shape, mounting style and metal type, and diamond quality ranges.   I selected what we have been comparing: 1/2 ct tw, G-I color, SI2 clarity, very good cut in 14kt white gold basket settings for $599, with free Fed Ex 2 day shipping.  This is a good value.  Only drawback is that I’ve never ordered from them before and don’t know if they are being spot-on with their quality grading.

Union Diamond:  Since I found their selection and pricing very good on my virtual purchase of a 1 carat solitaire, I thought I would check them out for diamond studs, too.  The site is OK.  You can choose from a drop-down menu of mounting options, so I selected their 14kt white gold basket settings.  The detail page says 1/2 ct tw, H-I color, SI1-SI2 clarity for $600.  Free Fed Ex shipping is included.  If the cut is good to very good, this pair is right in the range of Diamondstudsonly.com and Amazon.com for pretty comparable quality.

Virtual Purchase: 1 Carat Round Diamond

Several times a month, I am going to do a “virtual purchase” of a piece of jewelry.  I will  articulate a jewelry purchase scenario, and go through the decision-making process of what, how and where I choose to “purchase” the item.

What:  This week I am looking for a 1.00 carat round diamond, loose.  My “customer” wants the nicest quality he can afford, but won’t go below 1.00 carat weight.  I am only going to look at diamonds with an AGS or GIA certificate so there is some confidence that I will get the diamond quality I’m expecting. 

Where: I am going to shop online at Blue Nile, Amazon.com, Diamond.com, and Union Diamond.

(The Gold Standard) Blue Nile:  I go to Blue Nile first.  I do a search for loose diamonds that can be mounted by a specific date (if you are more flexible on date, there are more results), 0.90 to 1.15 carat, Very Good Cut or better, I Color or better, SI2 Clarity or better.  There are 246 diamonds in my search result.  Now it’s time to refine.   I review this primer on diamond quality 4 Cs, so I know that cut is important.  I sort for that and find that only 2 of the 215 diamonds are Very Good Cut, the rest are Ideal or Signature Ideal.

I know that color is also important, so I sort for that next, high to low.  I decide that a D or E color, while beautiful, are much more expensive than the equally gorgeous F and G color, and that VS2 to SI1 clarity seems like a nice range.  So I check the compare boxes next to a few combinations of F and G color, VS2 and SI1 clarity, Very Good, Ideal and Signature Ideal cut, and hit the ”Compare” button at the top of the column.  It opens a new page with the diamonds listed side-by-side in a neat comparison format. 

I remove 3 diamonds right off the bat, due to medium to strong blue Fluorescence.  It doesn’t really affect beauty that much in faint to medium (and may make the diamond more attractively priced), but while it might actually help me out if I were purchasing an I or J (or lower) color, in a premium color diamond, it’s not that desirable.  The diamonds that are left range from $5300 to $8800–kind of a big price spread.  I rule out the 2 highest priced diamonds (over $8000), mainly because there is nothing significantly better about them than the others.  Wearing my Gemologist hat, I scrutinize the numbers for a while.  I ultimately choose a 1.09 ct F, SI1, Signature Ideal for $6783.  What tips me this direction is that it has a 60% depth percentage with a 56% table, so its diameter is going to appear slightly larger than the other top contender at 62% depth/55% table.  The actual diameter measurement is also slightly larger, but I know I’m not sacrificing beauty for that, because it’s a Signature Ideal cut with the certificates to show for it.  It wasn’t the cheapest, but it was right in the middle of the pack ($5300 low to $7600 high).

(The Mighty) Amazon.com: Now that I have a more precise picture of what I’m looking for, I head to Amazon.com (is there anything they don’t sell now?).  As an Amazon.com insider (see here to read more), I know that Amazon tries to be the lowest price in loose diamonds whenever they can.  At Amazon’s site, you can find their loose diamond/Create Your Own Diamond Ring selection on their Jewelry gateway page, or by clicking here. 

I adjust the sliders to find diamonds in the same quality range I used for Blue Nile, with a price cap of $10,000.  I figure out (through trial and error) that Amazon’s slider is not as sensitive as Blue Nile’s so I have to move the slider up to 1.25 ct in order to get diamonds over 1.00.  I get 631 results.  Their compare feature does not have the same level of detail as BN’s–there are no measurements or girdle thickness, you have to click through to the detail page for each stone to find out those details.

I found a great 1.08 F, SI1 ”Ideal” cut (meaning that the table and depth percentages fit into the Ideal range), that looked like a great value at $5775.  But closer inspection revealed that it said “Very Good” under the Polish and Symmetry comments, so it’s not technically the same as the Signature Cut Ideal from Blue Nile.  But if you weren’t so picky about that, it would be a great value.  Since the G, VS2 combination was $1000 more, I stuck with the F, SI1 quality combination.  The final diamond at Amazon that is most comparable to the BN diamond is a 1.07 ct F, SI1, Ideal cut for $6610.  I like the 55% table/61% depth combination, and it’s diameter is 6.6 mm, similar to the BN diameter of 6.7 mm.  If I wanted about the same factors, but was willing to go down in size slightly to 1.00 ct exactly, Amazon had a nice diamond for $5940, but the diameter is slightly smaller at 6.46 mm.   

(Disappointing) Diamond.com:  I couldn’t find a great comp at Diamond.com.  The closest I could find was a 1.03 ct, F, SI1, Ideal cut for $5908.  It is not as large, and had medium blue Fluorescence, which I rejected at the other companies.  The selection was dismal, maybe 4 diamonds that were even close.

(The Darkhorse Surprise) Union Diamond: Union Diamond seems to come up a lot in search engines, so I checked them out, too.  Closest comparable diamond: a very nice 1.06 ct, F, SI1, AGS-certified Ideal cut for $6435.  If it is as nice as the website says, it’s one of the best values I came across, especially if the company could verify if the AGS certificate identifies the diamond as a “000″ Ideal (Ideal proportions, Polish and Symmetry).  The only drawback is that I’m not as familiar with the company, so I can’t give a full endorsement without ordering something.

Final Diamond Virtual Purchase:the 1.07 ct F, SI1, Ideal from Amazon.com.  While any of my top three diamonds (my top pick from BN, Amazon.com and Union) would have been incredibly brilliant, I like the value proposition of the price in the middle ($6435 from Union Diamond, $6610 from Amazon, $6783 from BN), PLUS the safety/reputation of Amazon.com.  If I get some personal experience with Union, or hear from someone who has, then I might go with that option.

Bottom Line:  With certified diamonds, you can–in theory–easily compare all the factors online and then buy something that should be a beautiful diamond.  The reality is that it’s pretty confusing trying to sort through literally hundreds, even thousands of similar diamonds that all have tiny differences that seem to affect value significantly.  It’s important to remember that although it seems like there are so many details to consider, at some point it’s splitting hairs–if you are staying in a quality range of Very Good Cut, I color, SI2 and better, you will end up with a gem with plenty of sparkle.  I chose an Ideal, F color, SI1 as a gorgeous diamond quality with an excellent value proposition.  A lot of people think that a G, VS2 combination is an ideal engagement ring, but most of those diamonds were $1000 or more for that quality combo, and I prefer the higher color–you can’t see the difference in clarity at all from VS2 to SI1.

Of course, if you go to a reputable jeweler in your area, you could compare several qualities and see for yourself if there is a difference worth paying for.

Diamond 4 Cs, Version 2.0

It seems that most jewelry sites have almost the same diamond education information out there, verbatim.  There is a difference between providing technical information versus explaining how to interpret and use the information practically when shopping for diamonds.  Here is an abbreviated primer, with my notes based on helping customers select the right diamond.

Cut:  I would say that this is the most important C, since the optical brilliance of the diamond is tied to its proportions and angles.  The top flat facet of the diamond, called the table, should be a certain percentage relative to the diameter of the diamond.  The depth percentage (specifically the depth of the lower part of the diamond) should also fall into narrow tolerances, along with specific angles of the crown and pavilion.  In addition to these percentages and angles (called Proportion), the quality of the polish (how smooth the surface of the facets are), and the symmetry of the facets are also part of the overall cut characteristics.  Unlike the other C’s, there are multiple ways to grade cut.  GIA (Gemological Institute of America)grades a diamond in the following terminology:  Excellent, Very Good, Good, Fair, and Poor.  AGS (American Gem Society)grades cut using numbers 0-10, with 0 representing an Ideal grade.  You will also see terms like near-Ideal, Fine Cut, etc.  These terms don’t mean a lot, and can vary in their accuracy depending on who is doing the grading.  You can actually find out a diamond’s potential cut grade if you know a few of its specific measurements through GIA’s Facetware Cut Grade Estimator.  Note:  These grades and proportions apply to Round diamonds.  If you are looking at another shape, they are evaluated a little differently.  More guidance on that in another blog.

Bottom Line: Understanding the Cut grade is critical to the value of the diamond.  Ideal and Excellent cut grades from grading labs such as GIA and AGS translate to beautiful diamonds with incredible sparkle.  They will also cost more.  Even a diamond that is E color and VVS clarity will not have beautiful brilliance unless it is cut very well.  If you can splurge on just one C, I recommend going with as fine a cut grade as possible.  Especially for an engagement ring, this is important.

Color:  Color in diamond terminology refers to the relative absence of color in the stone.  If a diamond is absolutely colorless, it will reflect the most pure spectrum of colors.  The diamond color scale begins at D (complete absence of body color) and goes to Z.  Colors D, E, and F are considered colorless, with minute differences only visible if the diamond is turned on its side and viewed against a neutral background.  G, H, I and J are considered near-colorless.  G, H, and possibly I all look quite white in a face-up, mounted position.  J can start to have a slight tint of color to it when in the mounting, but it’s really a case-by-case judgement. 

Bottom Line:  When choosing a color for a diamond, D, E, and F are fabulous, but they can also be costly due to their rarity.  If you have the budget and want to prioritize, you can’t go wrong with a colorless diamond.  If you want to balance the other factors (cut, clarity, and carat), especially in an engagement ring, you could consider a G or H–both are spectacular when mounted.  If  you are less sensitive to color (some people just can’t see the subtlety), an I or J could work great, especially in other diamond jewelry like earrings, bracelets, and pendants.  Color grades K through Z would be suited for fashion items.

Clarity:  Diamonds are graded on their relative freedom of inclusions.  Inclusions are small characteristics that are within the diamond, such as pinpoints or tiny crystals of carbon, and feathery fractures.  Most of the time, these are incredibly minute, only visible with the aid of a 10x power microscope.   

Diamonds with a Flawless (F) or Internally Flawless (IF) grade have no internal characteristics visible under 10x, and are incredibly rare.  VVS1  and VVS2 clarity grades are also rare, and it is very difficult for an expert to see the internal characteristics under 10x.  Inclusions within VS1 and VS2 clarity grade diamonds are still quite difficult to see under 10x magnification.  SI1 and SI2 clarity diamonds have inclusions that are somewhat easy to see under 10x, but can rarely be seen with the unaided eye.  Included diamonds, graded I1, I2 and I3, have inclusions numerous and noticeable enough that you can see them somewhat easily with the eye. 

Bottom Line:  Clarity is one diamond factor where you can have some flexibility.  You can choose diamonds from IF to SI2, and you probably won’t be able to see any inclusions with the eye.  That gives you a lot of room to play with, and can be a way to control the ultimate price you pay for a diamond.  Personally, I think that Vs2 to SI1 would be a gorgeous, no apologies clarity for an engagement ring or more important piece of jewelry.  If I wanted to maximize size, or it is for a piece of jewelry like an earring or bracelet, SI2 would be a great option as well.  If you are not concerned about inclusions or just can’t see the difference, you can get a larger stone for the money by going with I1.  I don’t recommend I2 or I3: the beauty is just too compromised, and there are durability issues.

Carat:  This C is the most objective of all the factors; it is simply how much the diamond weighs.  Diamonds are valuable, so they are weighed very precisely on a metric scale to the hundredth of a carat.  One carat is divided into 100 parts, called points.  A diamond that weighs .49 ct is described as 49 points, or almost 1/2 carat.  Diamonds are routinely cut into standard fraction sizes of 1/4, 1/3, 1/2, 3/4, 1, etc.

Bottom Line:  Small differences in carat weight can translate to large differences in value.  Sometimes you can maximize value by going with a carat weight just under the standard fraction sizes (a .90 ct versus 1.00 ct).  Really, you will just have to balance carat weight with other quality factors.  You will never regret higher quality, so if you have to choose color and cut over size, that’s a good way to go.  If size does matter (who are we kidding, of course it does!), then perhaps choosing a larger, well-cut diamond in the H-I color, SI2 clarity range might just get you what you want.