Virtual Purchase: Great Quality $2000 Round Diamond

Last week, I helped a friend search for a diamond.  Unfortunately, she lost her diamond from the setting, due to prongs breaking on her ring (fairly common, see my recent post about leaving rings for service).  She did have insurance on the ring, and with that reimbursement, had $2000 to spend on a new diamond.

She had an approximate .50 carat center diamond before, from a mall store.  We quickly figured out that she would get a better value shopping for a diamond online.  Some local independent jewelers may be able to come close to online pricing, but most mall jewelry chain stores cannot. 

I searched mainly on Blue Nile and Amazon.com.  I know from previous research and other loose diamond Virtual Purchases (click here for a round 1 carat virtual purchase), that these 2 sites have the best combination of selection, quality, and price.  Both have relatively intuitive search features and some customer support if you need it.

My friend wanted very nice quality (D to G color, VS1 to SI1 clarity, and Very Good to Ideal cut), but was excited to find that she could go up slightly in size even in that fine quality range.  I narrowed it down to several diamonds from each of the sites.  For all of the diamonds listed, they are GIA certified, and I liked all of the details: none had medium or higher Fluorescence, the girdles were not too thin or too thick, and I liked their relative table and depth percentages.  ANY of these diamonds would be drop-dead gorgeous.

My list of Blue Nile choices (if you click on the price, it will take you to the diamond’s detail page):

Carat:		Price:		Color:	Clarity:	Cut:	Depth %:	Table %:		Symmetry:	Polish:
0.73		$ 2,029.00		G	SI1	ID	61.2%	56%		VG	VG
0.62		$ 1,966.00		E	VS2	ID	61.3%	56%		EX	VG
0.64		$ 1,831.00		F	VS2	ID	62.6%	54%		VG	VG

The first choice represents a larger carat weight.  Both the weight and measurements are significantly larger than what she had, without sacrificing too much on quality.  The second choice is very fine quality, with the smallest carat weight of these options while staying in her price range.  The third choice is still wonderful quality, but is very slightly larger with a great price tag.

Here are my Amazon choices (again, click on the price to go to that diamond’s detail page):

Carat:		Price:		Color:	Clarity:	Cut:	Depth %:	Table %:		Symmetry:	Polish:
0.74		$ 1,920.00		G	SI1	ID	60.3%	58%		VG	VG
0.65		$ 2,015.00		D	VS2	VG	61.1%	60%		VG	G
0.62		$ 1,905.00		E	VS2	ID	61.6%	57%		EX	EX

I followed the same logic for these diamonds: 1st choice is larger but still great quality, 2nd is one of the finest qualities but still reasonable size and in her price range, and 3rd option is a wonderful balance between nice size and quality.

What I found is that Amazon’s prices are just a tiny bit better across the board.  Not by much: in this case maybe a difference of $50 to $100.  But that difference might cover the cost of setting the stone.  Blue Nile may be able to provide a little more guidance, so perhaps that is worth the additional cost. 

Ultimately, my friend chose the .62 E VS2 from Amazon (sorry, it’s sold!) for $1905, it was just an excellent value and a great balance of factors. 

Bottom line, for $2000 you could have a nice, no-apology quality 3/4 ct; a very nice, heirloom quality 2/3 carat; or very rare quality 1/2 carat.  I feel that for this purchase, she made an excellent, balanced decision.

What’s Trust Got to Do With It? A Jewelry Repair Tutorial

It is inevitable, at some point your ring or jewelry will need service.  You’ve heard the stories perpetuated by the media: stone switching, shoddy repairs, and outright loss when people leave their jewelry for repair.  Like most things with the media, reports are exaggerated.  BUT, there are a few things you can do to make sure you don’t get taken advantage of, and make sure you get your jewelry back in one piece.

Here’s what you should know:

1. Choose a reputable jeweler for the repair.  Ask around for a glowing recommendation from friends, family, and people you trust.  If you really don’t know a local jeweler, check out the American Gem Society websitefor a referral.  The AGS is a jewelry non-profit trade organization that was founded to promote high ethical standards among jewelers, and member jewelers have to subscribe to rigorous standards and be tested each year on their knowledge and service.  There are AGS Certified Jewelers in most markets in the US.
2. Insist that they use a Take-In Form, and get your own copy/receipt.  The actual form will vary from jeweler to jeweler, but all should have the same basic information: your contact info; a description of the item; a precise description of the work to be done; an estimate for the cost of the repair; and A REPLACEMENT VALUE FOR THE JEWELRY ITEM that you both agree on.  This information protects all parties.  
3. Get a good faith estimate on the repair work.  Writing “Fix” on the repair envelope does not count as a good repair description.  If your diamond fell out and you need your ring sized, then the description of the work should read something like “reset enclosed clear stone, re-tip 3 prongs, and size up to a size 6+”.  You should get some sort of estimate, even if it’s a ballpark figure, in writing on your receipt.  Or if it’s very elaborate, you can ask that they call you with an exact figure before they proceed with the work.  Most jewelers will do a free estimate, so if you decide not to go ahead, there should be no charge to you (there are exceptions to that, especially if they have to ship it somewhere to get the estimate). 
4. Get a complete description of your jewelry on the Take-In Form.  Don’t be offended if the jeweler uses terms like “1 green square cut center stone with 6 clear accent stones in yellow colored mounting stamped 18k”.  You may know that this is your Aunt Harriet’s heirloom Colombian Emerald ring, but the jeweler doesn’t probably have the time or lab equipment necessary at take-in to determine the exact mineral content of the gems you are leaving.  Experienced professional jewelers usually use general color terms to describe it (if they describe it as an Emerald, and it turns out to be glass, they don’t want to be liable for replacing the essentially worthless glass with a $10,000 emerald).  But the color, size, shape and number of gems should be noted along with metal stamps, engravings, and any other distinguishing marks.
5. Have the jeweler show you specific characteristics of your jewelry so that you can identify it when you get it back.  The jeweler can map out your diamond’s inclusions (or lack of) so that you can both check them when you get it back.  They can show you your sapphire next to one in their showcase to accurately describe the color.  The point is for you to BOTH scrutinize your jewelry so that you know what to look for when you get it back. 
6. Agree on a replacement value.  This is part of the take-in form and a good jeweler will want that filled in.  It limits their liability, too, in case there would be a loss.  Take in an appraisal if you have one, or a receipt.  Even if the value is out of date, it’s a good starting point for the discussion.  If you really have no idea, then they can show you items they have in stock most similar to your jewelry to figure out a value.  Make sure you agree and sign off on it.
7. Trust your gut.  Make sure you feel confortable with the store and salesperson before you walk out of the store.  If something doesn’t feel right, or the jeweler doesn’t follow the above points, take your jewelry and walk away.

I hope this information is useful and helps to put your mind at ease when you leave your precious jewelry for repair!

Comment if you have any other suggestions or horror stories–we can all learn from them!

Example of Jewelry Repair Take In Form

Ever Wonder About the “2 Months Salary” Guideline? Check this out.

This may be tantamount to heresy in the jewelry industry, but I have never been a fan of De Beer’s 2 Month Salary guideline.  In case you haven’t ever heard about this, De Beers, in their ever-present marketing, delicately suggest spending the equivalent of 2 months of your salary on a diamond engagement ring.  When asked about this over the years, my response has been to spend what you think is appropriate for YOUR situation.  No two couples and circumstances are alike.  Do what you want.

So today I ran across this amazing pictorial representation of this recommendation (thanks, Woot!).  This artist has taken US Dept of Labor statistics for wages, figured out 2 month’s salary amounts, then assembled images of 9 rings in that dollar range for 20 professions (each piece of art is 8 by 10 inches).  Check it out:

"Anesthesiologist" Engagement Ring Image, Lee Gainer

Looking at the images, I find this so fascinating.  It appears that size does matter: it’s a reflection on your socio-economic status, and to some it is an indicator of how much your fiance really loves you.  This is a subtle, brilliant social commentary on when marketing and relationships intersect.  Thank you, Lee Gainer.  Check out the artist’s equally amazing installations of “the thought that counts” and “group therapy“.

"Welder" Engagement Ring Image, Lee Gainer

What do you think of the 2 months salary “rule”?  Useful guideline for engagement ring neophytes, or Evil Corporate Mandate?

Kiss My (Royal) Asscher…

…Asscher Cut, that is.  All jokes about the name aside, Asscher cuts have been making waves since the early 1900’s.  If you’re not familiar, the name refers to stunningly beautiful, modified square-cut diamonds.  They sort of speak for themselves, don’t you think?

Royal Asscher 3-Stone Ring

What is an Asscher Cut and what makes it special? 

Asscher cuts have a wonderfully rich history.  The Asscher brothers were diamond cutters in Amsterdam around the turn of the 19th century.  Their cutting house became quite known for their skill and precision.  In 1902, Joseph Asscher developed a variation of the classic emerald cut.  This new cut was square, versus the rectangular emerald cut, with proportionally larger blocked corners, forming an almost octagonal outline.  The bottom was scissor-cut with symmetrical parallel facets, ending in a single central point, instead of the standard keel-line of the emerald cut.  The symmetry of this new style, combined with the greater depth of the stone, resulted in such radiant brilliance that people were really dazzled.  The design was patented, and a number of Asschers were cut and set into the Art Deco style of the times until World War II. 

Platinum Art Deco Ring with Asscher Cuts, $32,000 Retail

A bit of Asscher history:

If the Asscher name sounds familiar, you might be interested to know that in 1907, Joseph Asscher cut the Cullinan, a 3106 carat rough diamond.  The largest cut diamonds from the Cullinan are part of the Crown Jewels of Britain.  Diamond cutting at the time was totally done by hand, and the first cut made had to be accurate to split the crystal atoms correctly, or the world’s largest diamond would become the world’s most expensive pile of diamond dust.  Legend has it that ol’ Asscher struck the first blow to cleave the stone (successfully, obviously), then promptly passed out.  (The family refutes that, but I’m sticking with it.)

A Note About Size and Quality of Asscher Cuts

Color can concentrate in the corner facets of this cut, plus you can see inclusions through the clear step facets, so I recommend going a little higher quality with this cut: G or higher color, VS2 or higher clarity (click here for a diamond quality overview).  If you are in love with an Asscher cut, you should know that they face up quite small for their carat weight due to their depth relative to their diameter.  If you have a modest budget, or you prefer a diamond under 1 carat, you really should see a mounted stone and try it on for size.  A “halo” mounting, one with diamonds micro-paved around the center stone, will add a lot of volume without the same expense of going with a much larger carat weight Asscher center stone.

 

Danhov ME2 Pave Diamond Mounting for Asscher Cut

 

Modern Asscher Cuts

Sometime in the late 1990’s, coinciding with renewed interest in estate-looking mountings and platinum designs (plus mentions in Sex and the City and celebrity wearers like Kate Hudson), consumers rediscovered the Asscher cut.  In 2001, Edward and Joop Asscher updated the design slightly, adding more facets and a slightly larger table to increase brilliance.  Now you can purchase authorized Asschers from Royal Asscher.  

Other diamonds are cut into a similar style.  They may not all have the actual “Asscher Signature”, but there are a lot of gorgeous modified-square brilliants out there, in some equally stunning mountings.  

Here is a beautiful 1 carat Asscher cut from Blue Nile, it’s a great balance of color/clarity for this cut (you can choose a mounting from their selection):

Blue Nile 1.01ct Asscher Cut, G color, VS1 clarity, $4677 Retail

Here’s an Asscher mounting to maximize bling:

Pave Split-Shank Setting for Asscher Cut

Lest you think I am only about $30,000+ totally beautiful yet unattainable Asscher Cut rings (see my fav-or-ite Asscher ring here), here is a relatively affordable .77 ct Asscher Cut  in a pave split-shank mounting by one of my all-time-favorite jewelry designers, Mark Patterson:

.77 ct Asscher Cut Diamond in Micro Pave Mark Patterson Setting, $8225 Retail

If you are into simple elegance, maybe a solitaire is in order:

Blue Nile Trellis Solitaire Setting with Asscher Cut Center

With their clean outline and sophisticated brilliance, Asscher Cuts manage to be very modern and very classic at the same time.