Virtual Purchase: Great Quality $2000 Round Diamond

Last week, I helped a friend search for a diamond.  Unfortunately, she lost her diamond from the setting, due to prongs breaking on her ring (fairly common, see my recent post about leaving rings for service).  She did have insurance on the ring, and with that reimbursement, had $2000 to spend on a new diamond.

She had an approximate .50 carat center diamond before, from a mall store.  We quickly figured out that she would get a better value shopping for a diamond online.  Some local independent jewelers may be able to come close to online pricing, but most mall jewelry chain stores cannot. 

I searched mainly on Blue Nile and Amazon.com.  I know from previous research and other loose diamond Virtual Purchases (click here for a round 1 carat virtual purchase), that these 2 sites have the best combination of selection, quality, and price.  Both have relatively intuitive search features and some customer support if you need it.

My friend wanted very nice quality (D to G color, VS1 to SI1 clarity, and Very Good to Ideal cut), but was excited to find that she could go up slightly in size even in that fine quality range.  I narrowed it down to several diamonds from each of the sites.  For all of the diamonds listed, they are GIA certified, and I liked all of the details: none had medium or higher Fluorescence, the girdles were not too thin or too thick, and I liked their relative table and depth percentages.  ANY of these diamonds would be drop-dead gorgeous.

My list of Blue Nile choices (if you click on the price, it will take you to the diamond’s detail page):

Carat:		Price:		Color:	Clarity:	Cut:	Depth %:	Table %:		Symmetry:	Polish:
0.73		$ 2,029.00		G	SI1	ID	61.2%	56%		VG	VG
0.62		$ 1,966.00		E	VS2	ID	61.3%	56%		EX	VG
0.64		$ 1,831.00		F	VS2	ID	62.6%	54%		VG	VG

The first choice represents a larger carat weight.  Both the weight and measurements are significantly larger than what she had, without sacrificing too much on quality.  The second choice is very fine quality, with the smallest carat weight of these options while staying in her price range.  The third choice is still wonderful quality, but is very slightly larger with a great price tag.

Here are my Amazon choices (again, click on the price to go to that diamond’s detail page):

Carat:		Price:		Color:	Clarity:	Cut:	Depth %:	Table %:		Symmetry:	Polish:
0.74		$ 1,920.00		G	SI1	ID	60.3%	58%		VG	VG
0.65		$ 2,015.00		D	VS2	VG	61.1%	60%		VG	G
0.62		$ 1,905.00		E	VS2	ID	61.6%	57%		EX	EX

I followed the same logic for these diamonds: 1st choice is larger but still great quality, 2nd is one of the finest qualities but still reasonable size and in her price range, and 3rd option is a wonderful balance between nice size and quality.

What I found is that Amazon’s prices are just a tiny bit better across the board.  Not by much: in this case maybe a difference of $50 to $100.  But that difference might cover the cost of setting the stone.  Blue Nile may be able to provide a little more guidance, so perhaps that is worth the additional cost. 

Ultimately, my friend chose the .62 E VS2 from Amazon (sorry, it’s sold!) for $1905, it was just an excellent value and a great balance of factors. 

Bottom line, for $2000 you could have a nice, no-apology quality 3/4 ct; a very nice, heirloom quality 2/3 carat; or very rare quality 1/2 carat.  I feel that for this purchase, she made an excellent, balanced decision.

What’s Trust Got to Do With It? A Jewelry Repair Tutorial

It is inevitable, at some point your ring or jewelry will need service.  You’ve heard the stories perpetuated by the media: stone switching, shoddy repairs, and outright loss when people leave their jewelry for repair.  Like most things with the media, reports are exaggerated.  BUT, there are a few things you can do to make sure you don’t get taken advantage of, and make sure you get your jewelry back in one piece.

Here’s what you should know:

1. Choose a reputable jeweler for the repair.  Ask around for a glowing recommendation from friends, family, and people you trust.  If you really don’t know a local jeweler, check out the American Gem Society websitefor a referral.  The AGS is a jewelry non-profit trade organization that was founded to promote high ethical standards among jewelers, and member jewelers have to subscribe to rigorous standards and be tested each year on their knowledge and service.  There are AGS Certified Jewelers in most markets in the US.
2. Insist that they use a Take-In Form, and get your own copy/receipt.  The actual form will vary from jeweler to jeweler, but all should have the same basic information: your contact info; a description of the item; a precise description of the work to be done; an estimate for the cost of the repair; and A REPLACEMENT VALUE FOR THE JEWELRY ITEM that you both agree on.  This information protects all parties.  
3. Get a good faith estimate on the repair work.  Writing “Fix” on the repair envelope does not count as a good repair description.  If your diamond fell out and you need your ring sized, then the description of the work should read something like “reset enclosed clear stone, re-tip 3 prongs, and size up to a size 6+”.  You should get some sort of estimate, even if it’s a ballpark figure, in writing on your receipt.  Or if it’s very elaborate, you can ask that they call you with an exact figure before they proceed with the work.  Most jewelers will do a free estimate, so if you decide not to go ahead, there should be no charge to you (there are exceptions to that, especially if they have to ship it somewhere to get the estimate). 
4. Get a complete description of your jewelry on the Take-In Form.  Don’t be offended if the jeweler uses terms like “1 green square cut center stone with 6 clear accent stones in yellow colored mounting stamped 18k”.  You may know that this is your Aunt Harriet’s heirloom Colombian Emerald ring, but the jeweler doesn’t probably have the time or lab equipment necessary at take-in to determine the exact mineral content of the gems you are leaving.  Experienced professional jewelers usually use general color terms to describe it (if they describe it as an Emerald, and it turns out to be glass, they don’t want to be liable for replacing the essentially worthless glass with a $10,000 emerald).  But the color, size, shape and number of gems should be noted along with metal stamps, engravings, and any other distinguishing marks.
5. Have the jeweler show you specific characteristics of your jewelry so that you can identify it when you get it back.  The jeweler can map out your diamond’s inclusions (or lack of) so that you can both check them when you get it back.  They can show you your sapphire next to one in their showcase to accurately describe the color.  The point is for you to BOTH scrutinize your jewelry so that you know what to look for when you get it back. 
6. Agree on a replacement value.  This is part of the take-in form and a good jeweler will want that filled in.  It limits their liability, too, in case there would be a loss.  Take in an appraisal if you have one, or a receipt.  Even if the value is out of date, it’s a good starting point for the discussion.  If you really have no idea, then they can show you items they have in stock most similar to your jewelry to figure out a value.  Make sure you agree and sign off on it.
7. Trust your gut.  Make sure you feel confortable with the store and salesperson before you walk out of the store.  If something doesn’t feel right, or the jeweler doesn’t follow the above points, take your jewelry and walk away.

I hope this information is useful and helps to put your mind at ease when you leave your precious jewelry for repair!

Comment if you have any other suggestions or horror stories–we can all learn from them!

Example of Jewelry Repair Take In Form

Ever Wonder About the “2 Months Salary” Guideline? Check this out.

This may be tantamount to heresy in the jewelry industry, but I have never been a fan of De Beer’s 2 Month Salary guideline.  In case you haven’t ever heard about this, De Beers, in their ever-present marketing, delicately suggest spending the equivalent of 2 months of your salary on a diamond engagement ring.  When asked about this over the years, my response has been to spend what you think is appropriate for YOUR situation.  No two couples and circumstances are alike.  Do what you want.

So today I ran across this amazing pictorial representation of this recommendation (thanks, Woot!).  This artist has taken US Dept of Labor statistics for wages, figured out 2 month’s salary amounts, then assembled images of 9 rings in that dollar range for 20 professions (each piece of art is 8 by 10 inches).  Check it out:

"Anesthesiologist" Engagement Ring Image, Lee Gainer

Looking at the images, I find this so fascinating.  It appears that size does matter: it’s a reflection on your socio-economic status, and to some it is an indicator of how much your fiance really loves you.  This is a subtle, brilliant social commentary on when marketing and relationships intersect.  Thank you, Lee Gainer.  Check out the artist’s equally amazing installations of “the thought that counts” and “group therapy“.

"Welder" Engagement Ring Image, Lee Gainer

What do you think of the 2 months salary “rule”?  Useful guideline for engagement ring neophytes, or Evil Corporate Mandate?

Kiss My (Royal) Asscher…

…Asscher Cut, that is.  All jokes about the name aside, Asscher cuts have been making waves since the early 1900’s.  If you’re not familiar, the name refers to stunningly beautiful, modified square-cut diamonds.  They sort of speak for themselves, don’t you think?

Royal Asscher 3-Stone Ring

What is an Asscher Cut and what makes it special? 

Asscher cuts have a wonderfully rich history.  The Asscher brothers were diamond cutters in Amsterdam around the turn of the 19th century.  Their cutting house became quite known for their skill and precision.  In 1902, Joseph Asscher developed a variation of the classic emerald cut.  This new cut was square, versus the rectangular emerald cut, with proportionally larger blocked corners, forming an almost octagonal outline.  The bottom was scissor-cut with symmetrical parallel facets, ending in a single central point, instead of the standard keel-line of the emerald cut.  The symmetry of this new style, combined with the greater depth of the stone, resulted in such radiant brilliance that people were really dazzled.  The design was patented, and a number of Asschers were cut and set into the Art Deco style of the times until World War II. 

Platinum Art Deco Ring with Asscher Cuts, $32,000 Retail

A bit of Asscher history:

If the Asscher name sounds familiar, you might be interested to know that in 1907, Joseph Asscher cut the Cullinan, a 3106 carat rough diamond.  The largest cut diamonds from the Cullinan are part of the Crown Jewels of Britain.  Diamond cutting at the time was totally done by hand, and the first cut made had to be accurate to split the crystal atoms correctly, or the world’s largest diamond would become the world’s most expensive pile of diamond dust.  Legend has it that ol’ Asscher struck the first blow to cleave the stone (successfully, obviously), then promptly passed out.  (The family refutes that, but I’m sticking with it.)

A Note About Size and Quality of Asscher Cuts

Color can concentrate in the corner facets of this cut, plus you can see inclusions through the clear step facets, so I recommend going a little higher quality with this cut: G or higher color, VS2 or higher clarity (click here for a diamond quality overview).  If you are in love with an Asscher cut, you should know that they face up quite small for their carat weight due to their depth relative to their diameter.  If you have a modest budget, or you prefer a diamond under 1 carat, you really should see a mounted stone and try it on for size.  A “halo” mounting, one with diamonds micro-paved around the center stone, will add a lot of volume without the same expense of going with a much larger carat weight Asscher center stone.

 

Danhov ME2 Pave Diamond Mounting for Asscher Cut

 

Modern Asscher Cuts

Sometime in the late 1990’s, coinciding with renewed interest in estate-looking mountings and platinum designs (plus mentions in Sex and the City and celebrity wearers like Kate Hudson), consumers rediscovered the Asscher cut.  In 2001, Edward and Joop Asscher updated the design slightly, adding more facets and a slightly larger table to increase brilliance.  Now you can purchase authorized Asschers from Royal Asscher.  

Other diamonds are cut into a similar style.  They may not all have the actual “Asscher Signature”, but there are a lot of gorgeous modified-square brilliants out there, in some equally stunning mountings.  

Here is a beautiful 1 carat Asscher cut from Blue Nile, it’s a great balance of color/clarity for this cut (you can choose a mounting from their selection):

Blue Nile 1.01ct Asscher Cut, G color, VS1 clarity, $4677 Retail

Here’s an Asscher mounting to maximize bling:

Pave Split-Shank Setting for Asscher Cut

Lest you think I am only about $30,000+ totally beautiful yet unattainable Asscher Cut rings (see my fav-or-ite Asscher ring here), here is a relatively affordable .77 ct Asscher Cut  in a pave split-shank mounting by one of my all-time-favorite jewelry designers, Mark Patterson:

.77 ct Asscher Cut Diamond in Micro Pave Mark Patterson Setting, $8225 Retail

If you are into simple elegance, maybe a solitaire is in order:

Blue Nile Trellis Solitaire Setting with Asscher Cut Center

With their clean outline and sophisticated brilliance, Asscher Cuts manage to be very modern and very classic at the same time.

How Do I Sell My Jewelry?

I have been asked this question a number of times in my career, and it always makes my heart squeeze a little.  There are many different scenarios where people might need to sell jewelry.  Maybe the engagement or marriage didn’t work out, sometimes there are financial hardships, or maybe someone inherited Aunt Harriet’s ring and just won’t wear it. 

This scenario exposes a dirty little secret of the jewelry industry–there is no secondary market to speak of.  The jewelers who work so hard to sell you something in happy times aren’t really set up to help you if things don’t work out.  This makes a difficult situation even harder. 

The first thing you should know is that YOU WILL NOT GET BACK WHAT YOU PAID FOR YOUR JEWELRY.  There are a number of reasons for this.  If you sell it to someone in the industry, they can buy it wholesale and are in the business to make a profit.  Jewelers can carry large in-house inventories on memorandum, where they only pay the dealer for it if they sell it.  If they do buy something, they can get 30, 60, 90 day terms to pay for it.  Or they can make a cash purchase for a percentage off the wholesale price.  To buy it from an individual, they have to pay you outright, take a fair amount of risk that the item is what they think it is (mountings can hide a lot of flaws), and hope they can turn it in the future.  If you sell it yourself to an individual, you need to make the price compelling enough for someone to pay you cash instead of financing it through a jeweler.  Keep in mind, too, that you may need to unmount diamonds and gemstones and put them into simple settings that appeal to most people.

In general, there is a direct relationship between the amount of time you are willing to wait and the amount of money you will net for the jewelry.  The faster you want to liquidate, the less you will get for the item.  I have compiled a list of possible options and the impact this makes on how much you will get.  I have listed the following options in the approximate order of least amount of time and effort on the seller’s part to more time/effort, but possibly greater return:

$ Pawn Shop/Jewelry Liquidator:  In general, this is the option of last resort.  You will get–maybe–10 to 20 cents on the dollar for what you originally paid if the item has more value in the labor, such as a cluster ring with a lot of gold.  You may net more if the item has a solitaire diamond at least 1/3 to 1/2 carat.  The pawn shop or liquidator is going to turn it very quickly for a little more than they paid for it (way below market value), which is why the price is so low.  But it’s very fast–in the case of a pawn shop you will walk out with cash/check in hand.  In the case of an on-line liquidator, such as Thingswebuy.com, you contact them on-line, they Fed Ex you a box/package, and they will let you know as soon as they receive it what their offer is.  A company that I have heard of that might be good for more important jewelry items is Circa, they have offices in several major US cities.  Not sure how much they sell, but there is also an entertaining little site called exboyfriendjewelry.com to check out.  Note: I have not personally vetted this or any other on-line liquidator/buyer, so I cannot fully endorse.  Do your homework and proceed with caution.

$$  Consign through a physical jeweler:  This could be through the jeweler you originally purchased it from, or another store in the community.  There should be a written agreement about how long they will have it in the case, the price they will try and get for it, the amount you will net from the sale, and the appraised value if anything should happen to it while in their possession.  This option can take an extremely long time: how motivated is the jeweler to sell your item, versus their own inventory that represents a major capital investment?  But the amount that you net might be closer to what you paid for it, especially if you bought it from that jeweler and they are compassionate about the situation.   

$$$  Sell it yourself:  This option probably makes some people’s palms sweaty.  It is not for the faint of heart, but this is the way you can get closer to your purchase price. 

1. The first possible audience is someone you know who might be interested: friends, family, colleagues, etc.
2. I do not recommend a newspaper ad.  It is expensive, no one reads ads anymore, and it could attract the crazees. 
3. Craigslist.  This is a totally viable option, but probably only if you live somewhere there is an active local site.  Craigslist is easy, it’s free, and it’s local.  If you have paperwork, such as a diamond lab grading report or an appraisal, list as many details from it as you can.  Try to take a good photo, it’s easy to upload.  Price it well–you need to make it enticing to buy it from you versus a jeweler (jewelers offer less risk, return policies, financing, etc.).  If you paid $5,000, price it at $3500 or 4000–it will be a good deal for the buyer and that’s a pretty good price to get back out of it.  If you really want to sell it and be done with it, 1/2 of the price you paid (NOT a fictitious appraisal value) is very compelling.  If you find someone who is interested in seeing it, my recommendation would be to meet at a bank.  It’s a public place, security is all around, you can show the item to the potential buyer (hey, you could even pull it from the safety deposit boxes there if the bank has them, further reducing your security risk), and if the interested party decides to buy it, you can verify their certified check funds before they leave with the jewelry.
4. eBay:  This option is trickier (and worthy of its own blog).  Going through the listing process if you’ve never sold on eBay before is not trivial.  There are listing and selling fees that can add up.  You are also competing against semi-professional dealers with slick offerings.  But you can get your item in front of a large potential audience who is actively looking for jewelry.  There are 2 options for eBay, auctions and Buy It Now.  Auctions are still their bread and butter.  They recommend starting the bidding low with no reserve, but if you really can’t go below a certain price, you can set a reserve price (for instance, you paid $5000 for a solitaire diamond ring, you want to get at least $2500 for it, so you can start the auction at $1000 but set a reserve of $2500).  Definitely go for a longer auction, 7-10 days.  You can also set a Buy It Now price that represents a fair value.  There is a TON of fraud on eBay, so what I recommend is using an escrow service to hold the funds until the buyer has a chance to view the jewelry.  

$$$$ Trade It In:  If you can trade in your jewelry, you will probably get the most value possible for very little exertion on your part.  For instance, if you bought an engagement ring for $5000 and things didn’t work out, maybe you want a Rolex for yourself.  Or perhaps you could hold onto it until you decide to get engaged again, and trade it for a larger, finer diamond.  You might even get the full amount the jewelry is worth if the item you’re trading for is for more money.  Even if you didn’t buy the original item there, if it’s a salable piece, a jeweler has more incentive to do this than the consignment route.  Again, you’re taking some loss in that you are not getting full value back in hand, but that is the reality of the situation. 

Jewelry DOES have lasting value, it can always be reduced to its precious materials and the value measured out.  The unique thing about jewelry is that the emotional significance behind it is harder to calculate.  Only you know what your jewelry is really worth. 

Have you ever had to sell a piece of jewelry?  What was your experience?  Please comment and share your story!

Virtual Purchase: 3-Stone Diamond Ring

What:  For this Virtual Purchase, I am focusing on a ring with 3 round diamonds: a center diamond that is larger, with proportionally smaller round diamonds on the sides, in white gold or platinum in several total weights (adding all the carat weights of the stones together, abbreviated as TW):  1/2 ct TW, 1 ct TW, and 2 ct TW.  I didn’t look at total carat weights less than 1/2 carat–spread across 3 stones, the individual carat weights are just too small, you are better off putting your whole budget into one diamond.

A little background on the design and significance:  3-stone rings have actually been around for a long time, they just didn’t have a name and specific jewelry category until De Beers decided to brand them a few years ago.  Some other jewelry items that people didn’t know they needed before De Beers told them they did are engagement rings (the 1948 campaign “A Diamond Is Forever” that lauched the modern-day concept of a diamond engagement ring), right-hand rings, “Journey” jewelry, anniversary bands.  I do think the 3-stone ring is beautiful and enduring.  The 3 stones represent your past, present, and future.  With this symbolism, a 3-stone could be presented as an engagement ring, or for a significant anniversary. 

Classic 3-Stone Round Diamond Ring from Costco.com

Where:  I looked for 3-stone rings anywhere I could find them at major retailers online:  Blue Nile, Costco.com, Amazon.com, Diamond.com, plus some others in the table below.  I had kind of a hard time finding very many already mounted options in my target quality range of G-H color, SI1-SI2 clarity, especially in 1/2 ct TW.

Here are the results of my research in table format and my picks for best quality/value/style highlighted, with more specific notes down below (if you need a 4 C’s diamond quality refresher, click here).  You can click on the retailer name to go directly to the ring featured:

1/2 carat TW 3-Stone Diamond Ring:
Company:	Mounting Metal:	Min Color:	Min Clarity:	Cut:	Price:	Price after discount:	Comments:
Jewelrycentral.com	14kt w and y	H-I	I1	Not spec	$    595.00		Best value for H/I1 quality, I1 clarity not great
Ice.com	14kt w and y	G	I1	Not spec	$    795.00		I1 clarity not great, there are better quality options
Classicjewelry.com	14kt w and y	H	SI2	Not spec	$ 1,014.00	$    861.90	My pick for H/SI2 quality. Good value with 15% off
Amazon.com	14kt w and y	H	SI2	Very Good	$    999.00	$    699.00	Was $699, best quality, but now not on sale
Blue Nile	18kt w	I	SI2	Not Spec	$ 1,200.00		Beautiful ring, price not great even with 18kt mtg
Diamond.com	14kt w and y	H	I1	Not Spec	$    795.00		Not competitive on price, especially for I1

 

1 ct TW 3-Stone Diamond Ring:
Company:	Mounting Metal:	Min Color:	Min Clarity:	Cut:	Price:	Price after discount:	Comments:
Jewelrycentral.com	18kt w	H-I	SI2	Not spec	$ 2,200.00		Nice design, best everyday price
Mondera	Platinum	G-H	VS1-VS2	Not spec	$ 3,500.00		Nice style, higher quality
Blue Nile	18kt w	H	SI2	Not spec	$ 2,450.00		Beautiful ring, good reviews on site
Amazon.com	14kt w and y	H	SI2	Very Good	$ 2,999.00	$ 1,609.99	Was 30% off of $2299, terrible price w/o sale
Diamond.com	14kt w and y	H	I1	Not Spec	$ 1,995.00		Lowest price option, but I1 lower quality
Costco.com	14kt w	I	VS2	Very Good	$ 2,499.00		Absolutely beautiful mounting, great value
Classicjewelry.com	14kt w and y	H	SI2	Not spec	$ 2,547.00	$ 2,164.95	My pick for H/SI2 quality, good value with 15% off

 

2 ct TW 3-Stone Diamond Ring:
Company:	Mounting Metal:	Min Color:	Min Clarity:	Cut:	Price:	Price after discount:	Comments:
Diamond.com	14kt w and y	H	I1	Not Spec	$ 5,495.00		Low price but it’s lower I1 clarity and 14kt
Costco.com	Platinum	I	VS2	VG	$ 7,499.00		Absolutely gorgeous, great value for quality
Costco.com	Platinum	I	VS2	VG	$ 8,499.99	$ 7,999.99	Good sale offer, fancy vintage-style setting

 

My favorite 1 ct TW 3-Stone Ring from Costco.com

Jewelrycentral.com:  This company comes up high in google search results, so I checked them out.  Prong basket settings for their 3-stone rings.  Not crazy about I1, better quality is out there for good value.  No specifics on the break-down of carat weight.

Ice.com:  Not totally sure about this site, I would have to order something from them to be able to completely endorse.  Ok value on a G/I1 clarity. 

Classicjewelry.com:  New site discovery for me, they say they are a NYC manufacturer in business for 25 years.  They have the usual 30 day return policy and a customer service 877#. They also have live chat and list their address on the site, which is a pretty good sign (some no-name sites you can barely find an “about us”). Can enter email for coupon code for 15% off anything over $500 http://www.classicjewelry.com/diamonds/jewelry/coupon.php . 

Amazon.com:  Sigh.  Amazon jewelry buyers, please read this and listen up: your price messaging is terrible.  This item was 30% off of $999 for Valentine’s Day, but not marked anywhere obvious on the detail page, I had to go through entire check-out to get final price.  The sale prices for the 1/2 ct and 1 ct TW rings were amazing, but the regular prices are NOT competitive, and that is usually where Amazon wins (price).  I like this style, with the square-edge clean band and stylish baskets.  Site navigation for this category is pretty good: from Jewelry category page, 3-stone left nav category takes you to page where the rings are grouped by mounting type/diamond quality and you can choose your carat total weight. 

Blue Nile:  Beautiful ring, probably worth buying if you want the 18kt mounting, but I think their prices should come down a bit in this economy (if they want to survive).  Great site navigation as usual, 3-stone rings have their own category in left nav.  Could build your own from their loose diamond collection if you want.  Carat TWs from .25 ct TW to 3.63 ct TW.  No break-down of carat weights of center vs. sides, which surprised me from this company.

Diamond.com:  Arrgghh!  This is a jewelry-specific site, but navigating is terrible: no 3-stone category and the refinements are not useful (how about refining by carat TW, maybe?).  I had to wade through pages of totally random rings to find the 3-stones.  Also, I don’t like that they don’t offer qualities higher than I1 for mounted rings: at I1 clarity you can see the inclusions, and unless your budget is really tight, SI2 is a better bet. 

Costco.com:  Really lovely mountings, different from the rest of the offerings here.  For someone who wants classic, but with a little twist.  For the higher clarity and relatively large center at .40, I think the 1 carat TW version is an excellent value.

Mondera.com:  I had to look really hard on site to find 3-stones.  Nice style and quality, but could only find a 1 ct TW option.  Not as extensive a selection as I thought this jewelry-specific site would have.

Designer Spotlight: Mark Patterson

Mark Patterson creates beautiful jewelry in colored gems and diamonds.  I worked with his designs for a number of years when I was with a couple of independent jewelers.  The first designs I fell in love with were mostly colored gemstones that were used with varying intensities and pave-set into designs that showed off the amazing graduation of color.  His wife, Josette, is a sculptor and you can really see that sensibility in the designs:

Mark Patterson Sapphire and Diamond Intensity Ring, app $4520 Retail

When I was a buyer of engagement rings, I was thrilled to find out that Mark was doing engagement ring and wedding band designs.  His engagement rings are mostly timeless designs with a slight twist that makes them special.  He uses pave diamonds and beautiful metal work to highlight the center stone without overpowering it.  Of his classic designs, I especially like the knife-edge setting, which is simple but sculptural:

Platinum Knife Edge Setting, app $3790 Retail

The split-shank design is comfortable, impressive and does a great job of emphasizing the center stone.  Shown here with pave diamonds, but also available plain:

Platinum Diamond Split Shank Setting, app $4050 Retail

While his engagement rings are simply gorgeous, you can tell that color is still his first love.  His newer collection, Samba, plays with the varying shades of colored gemstones in a very modern style that is still classic enough for fine jewelry:

Samba Ruby and Pink Sapphire Bracelet, app $9670 retail

His new 9 two 5 collection features large cabochon gemstones set into a mix of sterling and gold.  It is also pretty affordable.  I especially love the interesting combinations of colors, like this:

Kashmir Cabochon Rings, starting at $630

All of Mark Patterson’s designs are beautifully rendered.  You can find a retailer in your area by visiting his website, or call their studio at 866-221-6593.

Virtual Purchase: 1 Carat Round Diamond

Several times a month, I am going to do a “virtual purchase” of a piece of jewelry.  I will  articulate a jewelry purchase scenario, and go through the decision-making process of what, how and where I choose to “purchase” the item.

What:  This week I am looking for a 1.00 carat round diamond, loose.  My “customer” wants the nicest quality he can afford, but won’t go below 1.00 carat weight.  I am only going to look at diamonds with an AGS or GIA certificate so there is some confidence that I will get the diamond quality I’m expecting. 

Where: I am going to shop online at Blue Nile, Amazon.com, Diamond.com, and Union Diamond.

(The Gold Standard) Blue Nile:  I go to Blue Nile first.  I do a search for loose diamonds that can be mounted by a specific date (if you are more flexible on date, there are more results), 0.90 to 1.15 carat, Very Good Cut or better, I Color or better, SI2 Clarity or better.  There are 246 diamonds in my search result.  Now it’s time to refine.   I review this primer on diamond quality 4 Cs, so I know that cut is important.  I sort for that and find that only 2 of the 215 diamonds are Very Good Cut, the rest are Ideal or Signature Ideal.

I know that color is also important, so I sort for that next, high to low.  I decide that a D or E color, while beautiful, are much more expensive than the equally gorgeous F and G color, and that VS2 to SI1 clarity seems like a nice range.  So I check the compare boxes next to a few combinations of F and G color, VS2 and SI1 clarity, Very Good, Ideal and Signature Ideal cut, and hit the ”Compare” button at the top of the column.  It opens a new page with the diamonds listed side-by-side in a neat comparison format. 

I remove 3 diamonds right off the bat, due to medium to strong blue Fluorescence.  It doesn’t really affect beauty that much in faint to medium (and may make the diamond more attractively priced), but while it might actually help me out if I were purchasing an I or J (or lower) color, in a premium color diamond, it’s not that desirable.  The diamonds that are left range from $5300 to $8800–kind of a big price spread.  I rule out the 2 highest priced diamonds (over $8000), mainly because there is nothing significantly better about them than the others.  Wearing my Gemologist hat, I scrutinize the numbers for a while.  I ultimately choose a 1.09 ct F, SI1, Signature Ideal for $6783.  What tips me this direction is that it has a 60% depth percentage with a 56% table, so its diameter is going to appear slightly larger than the other top contender at 62% depth/55% table.  The actual diameter measurement is also slightly larger, but I know I’m not sacrificing beauty for that, because it’s a Signature Ideal cut with the certificates to show for it.  It wasn’t the cheapest, but it was right in the middle of the pack ($5300 low to $7600 high).

(The Mighty) Amazon.com: Now that I have a more precise picture of what I’m looking for, I head to Amazon.com (is there anything they don’t sell now?).  As an Amazon.com insider (see here to read more), I know that Amazon tries to be the lowest price in loose diamonds whenever they can.  At Amazon’s site, you can find their loose diamond/Create Your Own Diamond Ring selection on their Jewelry gateway page, or by clicking here. 

I adjust the sliders to find diamonds in the same quality range I used for Blue Nile, with a price cap of $10,000.  I figure out (through trial and error) that Amazon’s slider is not as sensitive as Blue Nile’s so I have to move the slider up to 1.25 ct in order to get diamonds over 1.00.  I get 631 results.  Their compare feature does not have the same level of detail as BN’s–there are no measurements or girdle thickness, you have to click through to the detail page for each stone to find out those details.

I found a great 1.08 F, SI1 ”Ideal” cut (meaning that the table and depth percentages fit into the Ideal range), that looked like a great value at $5775.  But closer inspection revealed that it said “Very Good” under the Polish and Symmetry comments, so it’s not technically the same as the Signature Cut Ideal from Blue Nile.  But if you weren’t so picky about that, it would be a great value.  Since the G, VS2 combination was $1000 more, I stuck with the F, SI1 quality combination.  The final diamond at Amazon that is most comparable to the BN diamond is a 1.07 ct F, SI1, Ideal cut for $6610.  I like the 55% table/61% depth combination, and it’s diameter is 6.6 mm, similar to the BN diameter of 6.7 mm.  If I wanted about the same factors, but was willing to go down in size slightly to 1.00 ct exactly, Amazon had a nice diamond for $5940, but the diameter is slightly smaller at 6.46 mm.   

(Disappointing) Diamond.com:  I couldn’t find a great comp at Diamond.com.  The closest I could find was a 1.03 ct, F, SI1, Ideal cut for $5908.  It is not as large, and had medium blue Fluorescence, which I rejected at the other companies.  The selection was dismal, maybe 4 diamonds that were even close.

(The Darkhorse Surprise) Union Diamond: Union Diamond seems to come up a lot in search engines, so I checked them out, too.  Closest comparable diamond: a very nice 1.06 ct, F, SI1, AGS-certified Ideal cut for $6435.  If it is as nice as the website says, it’s one of the best values I came across, especially if the company could verify if the AGS certificate identifies the diamond as a “000″ Ideal (Ideal proportions, Polish and Symmetry).  The only drawback is that I’m not as familiar with the company, so I can’t give a full endorsement without ordering something.

Final Diamond Virtual Purchase:the 1.07 ct F, SI1, Ideal from Amazon.com.  While any of my top three diamonds (my top pick from BN, Amazon.com and Union) would have been incredibly brilliant, I like the value proposition of the price in the middle ($6435 from Union Diamond, $6610 from Amazon, $6783 from BN), PLUS the safety/reputation of Amazon.com.  If I get some personal experience with Union, or hear from someone who has, then I might go with that option.

Bottom Line:  With certified diamonds, you can–in theory–easily compare all the factors online and then buy something that should be a beautiful diamond.  The reality is that it’s pretty confusing trying to sort through literally hundreds, even thousands of similar diamonds that all have tiny differences that seem to affect value significantly.  It’s important to remember that although it seems like there are so many details to consider, at some point it’s splitting hairs–if you are staying in a quality range of Very Good Cut, I color, SI2 and better, you will end up with a gem with plenty of sparkle.  I chose an Ideal, F color, SI1 as a gorgeous diamond quality with an excellent value proposition.  A lot of people think that a G, VS2 combination is an ideal engagement ring, but most of those diamonds were $1000 or more for that quality combo, and I prefer the higher color–you can’t see the difference in clarity at all from VS2 to SI1.

Of course, if you go to a reputable jeweler in your area, you could compare several qualities and see for yourself if there is a difference worth paying for.